A quest to see the sunset at Bryce Canyon National Park

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The trip happened in late August, but the idea started months before.  The year 2017 started with a new challenge – hike every week for the entire year.  The hiking started locally in Dallas, Texas near home base and would branch out occasionally as variety was needed.  Some would call it a travel bug, others just an itch for adventure, either way a bigger, more spectacular trip was needed to satiate the outdoor cravings.  The search for flights began and included many great destinations such as Seattle, Portland, San Francisco, Denver, Salt Lake City, Phoenix, and others cities near scenic public lands with great hiking.  The search for the perfect flight continued over the span of a few weeks and the destinations were whittled away as prices increased, departures didn’t work, or arrivals were too late.  Vacation days were thin, sick days needed to be saved just in case, and work was about to ramp up to the busy season anyway so the flight and timing had to be just right.  One day, it clicked and a flight to Salt Lake City was perfectly timed with an arrival on Friday night and a departure late on Sunday for a reasonable price from Dallas.  The flight was not purchased, but was tracked and discussed for another few weeks.  The price increased and it seemed hope for an adventure would be lost.  The disappointment was accepted and the promise of other, future trips was made internally as the tracking of the flight prices was canceled.  Fast forward about two weeks, the urge to adventure still burning, prices were checked again.  With much surprise, and delight, it was discovered that the price was back to what it was on the very first search.  Second guesses weren’t allowed, the flight was booked and it was written in permanent marker on the calendar in the office.  News was shared with a dear friend, and it was decided the spontaneity of this trip was to their liking and they also booked a flight from their airport to meet up for the ambitious weekend adventure.

Trip planning commenced, and there were 100 things to fit in to less than 48 full hours in Utah.  Having visited Utah in the past, there were things that were only enjoyed briefly that deserved a revisit.  Arches, an obvious attraction, had been thoroughly investigated so it was off the list.  Zion would be a bit too far south, as would Bears Ears for this trip.  So, a route was planned from Salt Lake City through Capitol Reef National Park to Devil’s Backbone and back out to Bryce Canyon National Park for the Saturday portion.  It was a lot of miles to cover in one day and proved to be a real challenge to visit everything.  The main objective of the trip was obviously to hike, with a side aspiration to see the sunset over Bryce Canyon and sunrise at Cedar Breaks.  Hiking in Capitol Reef, Bryce Canyon, and Cedar Breaks was determined to be the most important with any other hikes being a welcomed addition.  A short hike in Capitol Reef in the morning sun led to driving miles with scenic views of storms on the horizon to the arrival at Bryce Canyon in the late afternoon.  The road to Rainbow Point, the end of the park, was longer than anticipated with many necessary stops to admire the views.  Once to the point, a hike on the Bristlecone Loop was taken while the sun was still pretty high in the sky.  Making the drive back to the entrance, the plan was to hike at Inspiration Point for the sunset.  Stops at a few small loops such as Natural Bridge and Piracy Point along the way allowed the sun to sink down a bit more and the views to be taken in a bit longer.  The arrival at Bryce Point prompted a race to the edge to peer out at the darkening hoodoos, as the sun was suddenly almost gone.  A quick drive to Inspiration point led to a view of the cherry red sunset in the distant clouds as it faded away.  The mission was complete, the sunset was viewed in Bryce Canyon National Park and it added more magic to the hoodoo views than could have been expected.

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This post was written in one hour for the first #NatureWritingChallenge.

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Friends for 26ish years.

My memory is always a little rusty… This is my general remembrance of times gone by.  I don’t know why I started thinking about all of this today, but it put a smile on my face anyway.

When I was a kid my best friend and I would walk around and plan our lives together.  I wanted to be an architect and she wanted to work with animals.  We would live together, have lots of land, and everything would be awesome.  We didn’t even think to complicate things with love, sex, or money – we may have been too young to fully grasp all of that or just didn’t care enough to factor it in.  The purity of a childhood fantasy is something I miss so dearly.  I had a computer program (before they were called apps) that I could design floor plans with and I created our sprawling home and work space.  I used JCPenney and Spiegel magazines to pick out decor and furnishings and we often discussed places to build this dream.  We would walk or ride our bikes down the road from my house, and we found this giant valley that would suit us just fine.  The valley had a pasture, a field for a garden, a forest, and a long driveway.  The spot couldn’t be seen from the road and would provide ample privacy from neighbors.  I worked through several plans for the house, consulting my best friend as often as possible (this was before internet and cell phones) and I even designed a separate building for office/work space.  Man, we were creative and ambitious back then.  I believe, but can’t be 100%, that we sneakily rode our bikes down there to get a better look one day which really cemented everything in place.

The year before my best friend moved, we came up with this wild idea to own a theme park/zoo type thing.  It would be called “The Wild” and we found an island in Hawaii, on Encarta Encyclopedia, to build on just off the mainland.  We designed hotels right down to the font on the sign, styles/themes, and prices.  We designed the wide open spaces and I think we even made it part of our art class project.  It was a crazy idea, but one we loved to work on – an escape perhaps?  I know we wanted animals, but I can’t recall if we wanted a giant free for all type of place with regions or if we wanted a zoo-like setting.  Either way, it was a big idea that two middle school kids dreamed up.  We made brochures, signs, informative sheets, and so much more.  What fun that was…

I can remember back to the beginning of my friendship with Kara, but I can’t remember everything exactly that first year.  Over the earlier years, I know we both wanted to live in Arizona at one point, used to be obsessed with Australia, and we always had affection for Disney movies.  We found our parents pot while ice fishing, and knew what it was because of DARE class, we filmed movies with no camera or script out at her grandparent’s beach house, and we had imaginations that made our less than perfect lives much better for a few minutes every time we hung out.  Over the years, our families were friends and thus we were able to spend a lot of time together.  I saw my first movie in theaters with them and had my first Taco Bell with them – both were big deals because those didn’t exist in our tiny town and her mom took us to the next big town.  Kara and I bowled together forever on the youth league and would get hyped up on Josta and Surge soda pop and annoy the hell out of the adults.  Our friendship was never 100% peaceful – we were both a little stubborn and we weren’t immune to fighting – but we made up.

When she moved, we didn’t really keep in too close of contact through Jr-Sr high school, but once college hit communication started flowing a lot more.  Eventually we’d talk on the phone forever, have random visits and hang outs, and instant messaging.  Our favorite thing to do though, I must speak for both of us on this, was visiting Aunt Mary in Cleveland.  We would get in the car, listen to stupid music, make signs to flash at other cars, and drive through the night to get to Ohio.  We’d get our favorite smoothies, visit toy stores and other niche stores, and enjoy a weekend with someone who is one of the most genuine people I know to this day.

These days, we don’t see much of each other, but we’re in touch at least weekly.  Looking back on these moments and analyzing our time together has really made me realize she is the only person that may know almost everything about me.  Thinking back to our big ideas and wild spirits, I’m sort of mildly invigorated.  I know that old me is still in there, under the bills, jobs, adult responsibilities, and general bullshit of life.  Here’s to hoping we can all find a little spark within to keep fighting the big fight.

 

Bonus, I just remembered we were the junior bridesmaid and groomsman at my aunt’s totally 90s wedding in 1995.  Big poofy pink dresses/tuxes with cumber buns, white limos, and we had to leave the reception by 8pm to a babysitter named Rachel? I don’t even remember.

Vivid Memories.

It’s amazing to me that I can remember so much from such a brief visit to a National Park.  I was thinking back to my first trip to Death Valley National Park today and I can remember it all like we drove through yesterday.  I remember the Devil’s Golf Course, Badwater Basin, and Stovepipe Wells.  I remember hugging my first redwood just days prior up in Redwood National Park.  A year later, I was camping in Arches National Park after an edge-of-your-seat drive through a blizzard in the Rockies on the way there.  I remember the trails we hiked to go see the various arches and landscape views as well as the campsite and the view from the tent.  I remember it being something like 11 degrees and very windy with some icy spots on the trails – and a funny sign warning of falling on ice.  I remember the BLM land on the Loneliest Road in America – US 50 – and the campsite there with snow.  We pitched the tent, dug a trench to divert any melting snow, and made a fire.  That night, the sky was so clear and full of stars.  You could see US 50 for miles, and in that one night I only remember seeing two cars in the distance.

I remember something from each visit to Redwood National Park and I remember our brief drive through Olympic National Park.  I remember the moss growing on the old wood – making everything pop with green.  I can’t recall a more worthwhile hike than the one Delicate Arch, despite not really knowing much about where we were going.  I can still picture Bryce Canyon, covered in snow, from Inspiration Point.  The hoodoos poking through massive snow drifts below is a sight forever burned into my brain.  Snow melting, muddy trails, and the spray of waterfalls in Zion in the early spring only make me want to return.

I could go on, and on, about things I remember without even a picture to trigger it.  I have so many memories from trips to National Parks.  I’ve experienced visits as brief as a drive through with stops at scenic lookouts to camping overnight.  The experience doesn’t matter, as long as it happens.  If we get people that may not be able to or people that don’t really know too much about the parks to the parks, they may have these little memories to hold on to and may be more inclined to help preserve them.  If people can develop memories or find meaning in these places, they may be more willing to join the fight to fund, protect, and expand them.  We must continue to fight to get EVERYONE out to the parks.  We must continue to fight the current administration and their desire to shrink, drill in, and/or eliminate these places.  Together, through collective thoughts and actions we can make these parks accessible to all people and create new ones for the future while securing proper funding.  I believe it is possible, do you?

I fell in love with public lands in 2009.

**Disclaimer: This is a blog entry I’ve put together describing how I fell in love with our public lands and where I think we need to go with them.  I don’t claim to be an expert and this blog entry is strictly my opinion.  My ideas are my own and are subject to change with conversations, education, and experience.  Thank you.**

Late Bloomer.

If we go back to my first National Park, it would be Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore or Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore.  I am almost sure I went to both as a teenager, with my grandparents, because my parents never took us anywhere out of the county – because of work, money, and time.  I grew up far away from the beauty that was Rainier, Yosemite, Yellowstone, or Rocky Mountain.  I knew not of these places until high school, but really not until college and beyond.  I’ve always had nature, just not public nature.  We had a couple hundred acres to roam, ample state land in Michigan, and plenty of friends with land.  I never really grasped the concept of National Parks, designated wilderness, or the like until college.  I took a course in wildlife management, learned a lot, and within the next few years visited some national parks.  I had student loan money, so I was invincible.  Not really, but it paid the tuition/rent and I had a few bucks left over for a spring break road trip.  I don’t advise on having a few bucks left over – borrow only what is necessary.  I do, however, advise saving hard-earned money for a spring break road trip that isn’t to some beach somewhere.  Traditional spring breaks did not appeal to me – but a road trip with my buds to places people weren’t going sounded amazing.

In 2007, my two friends and I, set out on that spring break road trip driving from Grand Rapids, Michigan to Denver and through the Rockies and beyond.  We went right past Rocky Mountain National Park and visited a friend in Grand Junction, Colorado.  We drove down through Utah, right past the Arches and Canyonlands, and onward to Texas.  We drove past EVERYTHING because we didn’t know much about it and one of us wasn’t into the outdoors.  The next year, my outdoor friend and I insisted on a better, more thoughtful trip that included national parks.  We went from Grand Rapids to Seattle, down to Redwoods NP, and onward to Death Valley.  We saw two parks the entire trip – which was better than nothing for us;  we had to compromise for time and interest of the parties involved.  I mean, forget that we drove right by Badlands, North Cascades, Olympic, Crater Lake, Yosemite, Grand Canyon, and Petrified Forest.  If 2017 me went back to 2008, I’d punch myself in the face for being so dumb.  Anyway…

In 2009, my buddy and I drove out to Arches and camped – determined to see more of our public lands this year.  We traveled onward to some BLM land in Nevada and then over to the Redwoods.  Up the coast, we went to the Olympic Peninsula – which was pure magic.  Saw more, stopped more, spent more time on public lands – really understanding what they were now and what they meant to me.  This trip was the one that really cemented how important these places were.  When 2010 came around, and we were half in college, half not sure what life was all about, half employed, we naturally decided to go to Vegas in the spring.  Sin City was exciting, but I feel the real excitement was about the road trip to various national parks.  We hiked in Death Valley, saw the sights from high to low, and I saw how big that place really was.  From there, we went to Capitol Reef, Arches, and Zion before flying back to Michigan.  If 2009 cemented it, 2010 sealed that cement.  I was in love with our national parks.

In 2011, after moving to Texas I met a new friend and we went to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon in October.  It is hard to put into words how I felt about the views, the yellow leaves, and the crisp air.  In love?  Probably.  2012 brought a revival of the random road trip with my outdoor buddy (since he moved to Texas) and we ended up in Tucson at Saguaro NP.  2013 Included Carlsbad Caverns, Arches again, and the Grand Canyon South Rim.  In 2014, we went to Big Bend in January and Rocky Mountain NP in August.  In 2015, my other half and I took our friend on a road trip to Petrified Forest, Grand Canyon, and Zion.  Later in 2015, we went to the Arch in St. Louis.  In 2016 I made my return to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore with visits to Redwoods, Oregon Caves, Point Reyes, and Golden Gate.  This year, we’ve visited Kenai Fjords, Redwoods again, and Sequoia/Kings Canyon.  It’s true love.

In the past few years, I’ve spent more time exploring public lands than I had my whole entire previous existence.  I’ve hiked in national forests, visited the parks mentioned above, and have plans for so visiting so many more public lands.  I was lucky to find the parks in 2008 and luckier now because I can afford to visit more frequently.  The more I visit, the more I love these places and value their existence.  The more I visit, the more I want to fight to keep them public.  The more I visit, the more I see that they may be all of ours, but they’re really not available to everyone.  The more I visit, the more I want to use my privilege to open these parks to those who have never visited or can’t visit due to distance, cost, or any combination of reasons.  I can’t imagine the level of passion and devotion I’d have if I’d been visiting these parks since I was a kid.  It is absolutely VITAL that youth of all backgrounds, socioeconomic levels, and age groups be exposed to (and educated about) these places.  Maybe these lands are not for everyone, but maybe a few of them will grow up to protect, love, and fight for them.  We need to work to include everyone in the outdoor world.  We need to diversify the DOI and hire people from all walks of life.  We need to designate more parks/monuments/etc in more places representing the spectrum of Americans that exist.

I’m not sure quite how to accomplish the tasks at hand, but I’ve decided a vital step is to find a way to get more people involved and interested in our public lands.  I need to immerse myself in projects, organizations, and maybe even a career shift to building a diverse following for our public lands.  It may be a new love, but it’s a true love.  I feel as though I’ve finally found my place in this fight to make sure our public lands are open to all and I’m determined to make a difference.

Six years already? Really?

Six years ago, to the day, I packed up my 1994 Chrysler LHS and set my GPS for Texas.  In a visit one year before the day I left, I had met a bunch of fun people and was told that Texas held plenty of job opportunities for me.  Over the year, I kept applying for jobs in all over the country.  I received rejections from every state, Australia, Canada, and Europe.  So, when 2011 rolled around, I decided to put in for a transfer within Best Buy, get a Texas area code, and just move in with my family until I found something down there.  I was 26, up to my eyes in debts of all kinds, and had nothing to lose in moving south.  I wasn’t even sure after packing my car that it would make it.  I didn’t have a dime to my name so my uncle loaned me $175 bucks to drive down.  I had no credit cards, no extra cash, and no backup plan.  My friend hopped in the passenger seat and away we went.  We made it to Texas on March 31, and I didn’t have to start work til the first full week in April.  It cost me $125 of the money, including food to move to Texas.  My old clunker cruised comfortably the entire way, and we made it without any issues at all.

In six years, I have learned many things.  Those fun people I met in my earlier visit turned out to be anything but fun and the opportunities I had were only if you knew someone.  In late 2011, my old roommate and best friend moved to Houston to pursue a career he said he’d never do but was too broke to say no.  By then, I was also working in an industry I had never intended and was just glad he would be closer than Michigan.  I started as a Best Buy transfer and quickly moved on to work for the same company for the better part of five years.  A sudden layoff sent me back a step and then a giant push forward to where I am now.  I sit here, six years later, appreciative of the family that didn’t even hesitate to open their home to me when I so desperately needed a hand.  I sit here thankful for the jobs I held, and the one I have, in getting me on track financially and saving me from the mountains of debt that started forming.  I am thankful for the people I have met in Texas, even those that turned out to be terrible and taught me a lesson in a way.  I sit here, six years later, still missing my dearest Michigan friends and family knowing I changed the dynamic by abruptly moving away.

In the six years I’ve been in Texas, I have… met my better half, adopted a dog and a cat, moved at least 5 times, met at least four people I could call friendly, met more than two handfuls of people I wish to never see again, and learned how to drive very aggressive/defensively.  Living in Texas brought to realization that I took the people and scenic beauty of Michigan for granted.  I didn’t love it and them hard enough when I was there.  I look at where I am now, a city dwelling thirty-something craving nature, and think I could have been hiking every evening in Michigan without driving more than a half hour.  I could have been cross-country skiing all winter and camping all summer.  But, when I was there, I wasn’t in a place to be doing these things – I wasn’t there mentally.  In Michigan I was depressed, angry, bitter, and avoiding all responsibility because I had fucked my life up and didn’t know how to fix it.  As much as I’ve grown to despise many people here and despite my need to move away, my initial move to to Texas saved me from myself and whatever extremely unhealthy choices I was making at the time.  Now, I’m not saying it’s all because of Texas the state, but moving to the state voluntarily and having people here that knew the right people changed my trajectory in life.

I can’t imagine what I would be doing if I hadn’t moved six years ago.  I can’t imagine if I’d even be alive – knowing how dark things were sometimes – if I hadn’t done something as drastic as moving and accepting the help of family.  Mostly, I try to focus on the present and future now.

All’s I know… I am thankful for what I have and who I know because of Texas, I miss my people and the scenic beauty of Michigan, and I will continue to desire a relocation when it’s appropriate for my better half and I to do so.  I have a new appreciation for the friendships that weathered the years apart, a new affection for green trees and freshwater, and a new view on the value we place on things in our lives.  I’ve learned, by living in the DFW metro area, that I do not desire a city this big and I need some form of public transportation.  I have learned that speed limits outside of Texas are absurdly too slow.  I have realized that this state does have natural beauty, but it takes some time to discover it all.

Cheers to life, the future, and the hope that things will continue to get better.

It’s March, already?

I hate March.

March is my least favorite month because it’s that month between winter and true spring that just hangs out.  I hated March more when I lived in the North because it was never sure if it wanted to snow or rain.  In Texas, it’s always rain, and that’s more okay I guess.

The only part of March I ever loved, was spring break.  In 2007, we started a new spring break tradition of driving across the country to get a glimpse of what was out there.  We started this tradition as we were nearing the end of our college careers, so it carried on afterwards when we took post grad stuff and worked shitty low-paying jobs.

In 2007, we (Myself, my best friend Kevin, and our friend Matt) didn’t have a plan.  We rented a car, a 2007 Chevy Impala with a sunroof, and just drove.  We had concert tickets for a show in Chicago, a friend living in Grand Junction, CO, family staying in Gulf Shores, AL, and a hockey game to attend in Detroit, MI.  Some firsts from this trip included: crossing the Mississippi, seeing Mountains, swimming in an ocean, having an ocean front hotel room, renting a car, seeing palm trees, and visiting all of the states beyond MI/IN/IL/OH.

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In 2008, we had a plan.  We drove to Seattle, 32 hours or so, and down the coast to San Francisco.  We saw the Redwoods, coastal beauty, and big cities.  We moved inland, saw the desert and Death Valley, Las Vegas, and the rest of the middle of nowhere.  This trip included seeing a movie, Wild Hogs, in Iowa and then finding the town it was based on in New Mexico on the way home.

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In 2009, Matt had a real job and so Kevin and I invited my BFF Molly.  Kevin and I rented a Chevy HHR – long story short, we had a snafu at the car rental place – and headed west.  We camped at Arches, hiked and drove through Grand Staircase Escalante National Monument, took the Loneliest Road through Nevada and camped along that, and picked up Molly in Sacramento.  From there we hit the coast again, going north to Portland and Seattle and then home via I-90 towards Michigan.

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In 2010, Kevin and I flew with friends to Vegas for a few days.  We stayed there, did the Vegas thing, went to Death Valley, Hoover Dam, etc.  We then visited Zion and Bryce Canyon with hopes of getting to Grand Canyon.  The snow was too much, and we had to change our course.  We traveled some scary roads, hiked some icy trails, and flew back to Michigan much happier.

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In 2015, my better half and great friend Nikki utilized their spring breaks and went west.  We drove to Petrified Forest, Grand Canyon, Vegas, and hit Zion on the way back.  We hiked and enjoyed nature and city alike.

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My hope for 2018 is that I will use my vacation during my better half’s teacher spring break (he has a conference this year) and we’ll adventure somewhere by car again.  Maybe Bryce Canyon, Yellowstone, or Yosemite.

Here’s to March and making the best of it.

Right now.

Things I need more of in my life:

  • Vacation days – weekends just aren’t enough it seems. Well, they would be if everything in this awful state wasn’t more than 3 hours away
  • Good beer – I was reminded of all the good beer that every other damn state has to offer on my recent trip to Minnesota.  Texas has some good beer, but it doesn’t seem to be as big of a deal here.
  • Isolation – almost 4 days without the ability to connect to anything besides a Bluetooth speaker (against my will) is something I try to do without being in the middle of nowhere anyway so I can always use more of it.
  • Camping trips – this will happen on more weekends until it’s too hot, since weekends are about all I have the rest of the year if I want any time off to visit Alaska this summer or Michigan this winter.
  • Fresh air – again, the recent trip reminded me of how smelly the city (and Texas in general) is and how much I miss clean air
  • Live music – this will be remedied soon. Weekends here offer all kinds of shows, don’t require much travel, and are relatively inexpensive.
  • Books – I’m listening to books almost exclusively on my commutes, but I need to read a few too.
  • Social interactions – less facebook, more face time (so cliche it hurts).  My twitter is mostly preaching about saving public lands, my facebook is a collection of nature photos, and instagram is just more or less the real life stuff.  I don’t get too political but this past weekend I did in person and it was much more rewarding to have an actual debate vs one on the interwebs.
  • Hiking – I know, I’ve committed to the 52 hike challenge. It’s time to step up my game and make these hikes more involved and at least a few more miles each.
  • Water – I’ve been slacking on my water intake.  Hydration is key to healthy weight and digestion.
  • Exercise – between hikes, I need to be doing more little hikes or getting my running more consistent.  I am going to work on this; trying to find the motivation.
  • Porch time – either at our apartment or visiting friends and family, porch time is usually relaxing and it’s a good way to incorporate social interactions.
  • Positive energy – the world is kind of on fire right now with politics, war, deforestation, and dying oceans.  I need to refocus on what I can do to help these causes, and others, while remaining positive and upbeat.  The increase in exercise and hiking usually helps boost my mood and keep it level – as does the disconnecting, good beer, and fresh air.

 

It’s been the little things that make life so great, despite all the despair.  This past weekend I heard the wolves howl – that’s an intense and fantastic experience.  I drank ice cold water from a lake in Northern Minnesota.  I came home from a long vacation to love.  I heard some comedy that put things in to perspective and made me laugh.  I remembered I had a snack left in my still-packed bag from vacation that I get to eat when I get home.  Sometimes the little things are all I have to hold on to, and it’s really just as simple as that.  My recent weekend away, disconnected, reaffirmed the plans my better half and I have set in motion to get out of Texas and live mindfully of spending and consumption.

Current songs that I recommend: (mostly indie vibes)

  • Said The Whale “Step into the Darkness”
  • Knox Hamilton “Never My Love”
  • Ryan Adams “Do You Still Love Me?”
  • Yukon Blonde “Saturday Night”
  • James Reed/Christopher Norman “Drip Dry Gloves f/ Silas Green”
  • Geographer “I Want it All”
  • Saint Motel “Born Again”
  • Arkells “My Heart’s Always Yours”
  • The xx “On Hold”
  • Kings of Leon “Waste A Moment”
  • The Lemon Twigs “I Wanna Prove to You”
  • Boy & Bear “Limit of Love”
  • Bishop Briggs “Pray (Empty Gun)”
  • Kopecky “My Love”
  • Christopher Norman/James Reed “Haunting”
  • Said The Whale “Heaven”

 

My most recent hike/northern adventure!